Where are we now then?

As our water pump ran dry we needed to leave Paddington Basin in search of a water point. So on Tuesday we untied the ropes and set off for the Regents Canal towards Limehouse Basin. Leigh and I struggled turning the boat in the great gusts of wind in the basin but eventually we got round - churning up all the debris in the corners!

We passed through Little Venice and after some troubles getting our propeller clear from the basin's rubbish we were on our way into Maida Hill Tunnell. At 272 yards long, it is one of the shorter tunnels. It is single traffic and fortunately was all clear for us. We then skirted some regal properties along the Regents Park and were heading into Camden Town and Camden Locks. Fenced off to the public, you need to use the British Waterways key to access the locks. At the locks we had a large audience to entertain! We passed through St Pancras Lock and on to Kings Cross where there are new waterside developments by the train station. After another tunnel, a little longer this time we passed City Road lock and found a tap.

Both feeling tired after a day fighting the wind, we were rather annoyed to discover the tap not working and the next water point three miles and two locks away. So we carried on through Shoreditch, Hoxton, Dalston and finally South Hackney where the water point was free and working!

We moored up against another boat outside the Victoria Park and have so far found a good community of boaters around us.

London is huge and we are slowly trying to find our feet and way around.

Today I took a bike ride to Stratford (New Town) and passed by the Olympic site. In parts it is a complete building site. But potentially it is clearly an outstanding area.

I was rather impressed. Unfortunately however, the boating community are being pushed out during the actual Olympics with a pretty penny being made out of renting moorings to those that can afford it.

Money has been spent smarting up Stratford and the main road felt like a Californian boulevard. I was in the area looking for a Maplins electronics shop as I needed a 100K resistor.

What for?

This....

Yes I am back on track with the construction of my Analogue Delay pedal! Horrah!

Into the depths of London

Our mooring in Cowley was for 14 days without charge but after the one night we were keen to get into the thick of London.

I picked up some provisions from the local high street which was delightful - already I noticed the diversity of cuisine in the variety of ingredients in the smallest of shops. With our preparations on the hatch, horn, map, camera and tea...

we pulled out the mooring pins (like giant tent pegs) and set off for the last lock. Just before we used the facilities - rubbish bins, water and Leigh went into a canalside cafe to order a quick sarnie. They dropped it out to him as we were leaving.

We were in and out with Leigh working the heavy gates and me on the tiller and the sun was gleaming down.

I was glad to see the back of the locks! We were now on the look out for landmarks... was that Wembley Stadium?

We passed this most delightful boat...

with along the side, black 'lee' boards as noted by Andy's comment.

A mile along the way we reached Packet Boat Marina and the Slough Arm. Our guide book noted that this waterway of the GUC is badly silted and in a decrepit state. By the sounds of it, it doesn't get well used and you can get stuck, running aground. We carried on our way to the Paddington Arm.

We stopped at bridge 200 - Station Road bridge as there is a laundrette just round the corner from the canal.

I spotted a crazy Coot - one of the many birds that live on the canals. Their sounds are quite alarming! Particularly when the are warring.

Back on board, and with the engine going we were very close to Bulls Bridge Junction and the Paddington Arm...

The broken side of the sign is Braunston.

Leigh did an excellent manouver of a 90degree turn to get onto the arm. With a blow of the horn we warned any other boats coming through.

We were invited to our friends mooring at Northolt and popped over to see them.

We left their place early in the morning and the trip was lovely as the dew was glimmering, there was a fresh bite to the air and the canal was ours!

We passed through Perivale Wood (a lovely wooded stretch with Eucalyptus trees and green parrots!), Alperton, Park Royal and Acton, Wormwood Scrubs and into Kensal Green...

We began seeing some London views....

We passed through Little Venice, which is just that, little - not what I was expecting. And round the corner we were into Paddington Basin. We moored opposite this...

A beautifully engineered bridge that curls up like a scorpion tail forming a carefully closed octagon.

Paddington Basin is modern, majestic and full of busy office workers. The jetty is illuminated at night, it almost feels like a marina. There are no facilities here and the mooring is for 7 days only. It is perfectly situated close to the station, tubes and bus routes so it's easy to get around.

We had some lovely family visit us yesterday and we got to show off our brilliant home in the big smoke.

Today we walked to Hyde park and hired the 'Boris Bikes' for the afternoon to explore the park. It was so much fun!

Tomorrow I've got a job interview, so fingers crossed I'll get that. And by the sounds of it, we are staying put in London for winter (getting to Birmingham's out the window) so there will be more from us about life afloat in the smoke.

To London days 21 and 22

From the M25 (Abbots Langley mooring) we spent the last two days working the locks down the Grand Union Canal to Cowley (near to Uxbridge) our current mooring point - North West Greater London.

We stopped over at Rickmansworth last night, in a strange residential area of Croxley Green. It was here that two boats moored in front and behind, both with cats to torment little Delia Derbyshire (how easily her bubble can be popped!).

Today we cruised a delightful stretch parallel to lakes and nature reserves - which really do deserve walking round. But we didn't stop. We cruised 10 miles and the last of the locks into London. One last lock tomorrow and we have a straight run to the Paddington arm and into Paddington basin.

On route we have seen some of the most original and unusual forms of house-boats from floating sheds and pirate ships to ornately carved pixie narrowboats and dutch barges. All very eye-opening.

Overall, it has been a most exhilarating journey and in 22 days from Nottingham, a steady cruising time.

To London days 19 and 20

Tring summit was so delightful and beautiful.

I would say it is my most favourite spot along the GUC so far.

The variety of trees stood majestically with a vast array of foliage climbing, hanging, filling the spaces below the leafy canopy.

The woods felt magical. Some of the trees were perfect for building tree-houses too.

Notice the roof after a night under the trees...

There were only occasional boats moored along the stretch. It is a BW designated 14 day visitor zone, so you can't stay long. It was by the bridge for Tring station that I saw the first sign with mention of London! I was so flummoxed that this was as good a photo I could manage on a moving craft!

At Cow Roast begun the locks down passing through Northchurch and into the trendy town of Berkhamsted. Here it really felt like london, with folks in fashionable breton tops, sand-stone coloured brick houses and commuters. We passed a couple of lovely looking pubs and found a mooring just before dark.

This morning I popped into the town of Berkhamsted for some provisions. Weaving through the tiny town houses by bridge 142a, I discovered a shop. A lovely organic butcher shop. I picked up some of the tastiest bread I have ever eaten, along with cheese, ham, bacon and sausages - the quality of the produce is excellent. I had to find a post box too, but this was simple as it was practically next door to the butchers. It was actually in someone's front garden, I had to check and double check that it wasn't ornamental, like the red phone boxes have become!

This is a regular experience as a traveller to new areas. When you run low on foods, need medical access, need a cashpoint it's always a new experience to find said need. I have considered building up a log book of the best places and useful info around the country, but maybe I just need a label on the blog for "useful info". I discovered that someone is compiling a list of recycling points around the canal network on their blog and another person has produced a list of launderettes too!

The guides we use as maps on our journey are Nicholson Waterways guides that are pretty comprehensive but lack that little spark - for example they list supermarkets but not independent sellers like those in cottages along the towpath. But that isn't all that realistic I guess. Also I've thought about noting where I find foods in the hedgerows, apple trees, plum trees, etc, etc. But it's just an idea, the food is in abundance so you've just got to keep your eyes peeled.

It was mid-day and we mustered ourselves together to move. We reversed to the waterpoint near by (at a petrol station) and filled up, hosed down the boat and picked up some kindling. We set off for the first of many locks today.

Leigh caught this lanky fellow on camera...

Hemel Hempstead was a little disappointing, too many locks and not enough views. They are big double locks too, so it was slow going and hard work today.

We didn't stop once and Delia was going stir-crazy inside, enough to do an escape act and try to throw herself into the water! On the whole she is a darlin' settled inside but when she's had enough we sure know about it. I like to get her out and keep her on my lap when I can so that she is part of the move but it was hard to do this today with all the working of locks.

We passed through Winkwell swing bridge, a key operated bridge that stops the road traffic...

A notice still stands stating that if the bridge is not put back in place a fee of 10 shillings will be demanded "by order!"

Two boats passed us here, one towing the other - would they make it through the gap?

We passed Kings Langley village and it was 7pm. One hour until dark, but we carried on determined to get beyond the M25 motorway. We went through lock 70 Home Park Lock - a deep lock, and motored 1/4 of a mile...

under the huge bridge number 160 - the M25

We pulled over and after a bit of jiggling around on the shallow we found the perfect spot to moor. Delia has explored the area and just popped in meowing her approval.

So we are in the larger ring of London it feels. Brilliant. A few more days and we will be in Paddington.

Tonight after 15 locks we relax, tired and aching under the glory of a full moon.

To London day's 17 and 18

We left the mooring on the outskirts of Milton Keynes (in an area called Wolverton) on Tuesday. It was extremely blustery and I wasn't convinced it would be a good day of cruising. Being 65foot and quite high in the water, the boat is prone to gliding about the canal at a mere whisper of wind. However, we decided to give it a go, learning to 'work with the wind' (my ridiculous saying I pester Leigh with) and see how she fares.

With Leigh on the tiller, she did surprisingly well. Giving moored boats plenty of room...

so as not to crash into them and riding the throttle we managed to pass the whole of Milton Keynes without any hiccups. The route was rather pleasant as the town is below the canal and so the views are mainly of open parks and tendered woods. The bridges however were awful, that is to say not aesthetically pleasing or well designed. I thought 1983 was a great year (Papa Bear shall confirm) however not for the designing and building of concrete bridges. How can they get it so wrong.

We had our first and only lock of the day at Fenny Stratford, which we shared with the same boat we did the flight at Braunston with, Bottom of Arden.

We moored at the opposite outskirt of MK near Bletchley. 'The' Bletchley park. I am humbled.

We didn't hang around, the next day we were off again, stopping at a boatyard for the facilities and headed on towards Leighton Buzzard.

We shared the locks at Soulbury Three locks 26-24 with a lovely couple who have a beautiful lurcher, with fur like silk. She like Deila was going a bit loopy with all the wind, running up and down the tow path. Obviously not at the same time. Delia was tucked up indoors when the lurcher was lurking. We stopped for food at the canal-side Tesco in Leighton Buzzard and by the next two locks we'd had enough.

The route from here skirts many tiny villages and looks out to the Chilterns. It is delightful. As this is a broad section, there are plenty of good looking barges and wide beams...

We passed a boat's permanent mooring with these...

sadly it is time to think about our heating again.

Today we reached our first lock and shared with a hire boater. They were winding and returning back on themselves so when we reached the next lock we waited for another boat to share with. Alas it was the lurcher and co. who had teamed up with another boating friend and were working the locks together so we carried on alone.

Lock after lock with a quater of a mile in between each.

I got it down working the gates and paddles.

We got to Marsworth bridge 130 by 4pm and took an hour out to relax.

At 5pm we were on our way again passing a beautiful thatched cottage just before the Aylesbury Arm...

and headed through Marsworth Locks - 7 in the space of a mile.

It was here that Leigh noticed the worn stone...

from years of people standing astride working the ground paddle.

The surrounding view was bliss as the sun began to go down.

We reached the final lock and passing the Wendover Arm...

and the Toll House, now someone's fabulous pad...

We came to a beautiful wooded stretch to moor up just before Tring Summit Level. It was dark within 5 minutes of mooring up so we time it just right. 16 locks today and they were big and heavy - let's just say we will sleep well tonight.