Delay through the door

Looky what came through the post! For my musical antics in Bitumen (the band) I have decided to build my own delay pedal. So I went for this one from Build Your Own Clone. It looks pretty fiddly but after the Nocto Loco and the Phantastron, I'm up for the challenge. All I need now is some more free time to get this made...

Bassline Generator

So it feels like a very sad Saturday today. There is little that can be done. I want to continue with the completion of the Bassline Generator and let the day pass.

After all the top stuff was in place, then came the plastic jack to be fixed up. Notice where it is positioned, underneath the 100K trim pot so the ends of the pot needed a good trim.


On the underside of the PCB board you can see the send/recieve LED's (given the length to fit inside the wooden box) and the batery pack and jack plug.


Here we have the four plastic legs or stands fixed in place with nuts.


Oddly I realised that I had missed inserting the other chip socket so got this inplace and soldered. The instructions didn't mention about the 6-pin ISP header so this was sorted at this stage. I was unsure of the polarity so went with intuition.


After all points were checked the chips were inserted by bending the legs slightly in to allow for ease in pushing into the holders. The knobs were put on and here is the finished article!

Against the clock...

The count down is 15 minutes before I have to fly out the door to work the day and night away. The bassline generator has been completed, at least the construction side, just the modifying of the wooden box to do and it'll be ready to roll out in a gig or two of the MOLTEN GODS!

I had left last night at the point of fixing on the controls.


The buttons were in place so next up were the LED's.

The Red LED in the centre of the board can be used to trigger the photocell so this has heatshrink round the legs. Notice that one leg is longer than the other to indicate positive and negative, the positive being longer. This is generally indicated on the PCB by the silkscreen square symbol around the hole.


However on for this LED the symbols is slightly different. It is the actual symbol used for a Light Emitting Diode (LED) indicating anode (positive) and cathode (negative) with power or light emitting from the lamp. The current flows from positive to negative.






Ok, just realised the time and I have to clean my teeth. Leigh is playing with his new toy now. I has a good range of tone and he is coming up with some great melodies, sounds awesome through a delay!

To be continued...

Construction Night...

...of audio delight!


I have been scratching about the flat wanting to get making again. With the fantasy of fantastical things I am able to design and build I suddenly realise that I feel far from the electrical or engineering genius I would like to be. I have started the ball rolling again with a kit purchased by Leigh of the Autonomous Bassline Generator by 4ms Pedals.

This fancy little beaty beauty has a photocell allowing the user to 'play' with the avaliable light and trigger sounds using this component. It also features an infa-red sensor to connect several bassline generators or any other Andromeda Space Rocker units in series (not that we have more than one ASR unit but you never know...)

So step one was to check all components are there and have a good read of the instructions.


Leigh has been wanting to solder so we had a little session on 'how to', I did indeed pass on the wise words of those who have helped me from SNARC namely, John, Terry and David. Mind you looking back over these photos I think we shouldn't be soldering on top of paper, fire hazard and all - least we are still here to tell the tale!


It is easier to solder components in place such as resistors and capacitors if you bend the legs slightly out on the underside.


Leigh did a sterling job!


Here it is coming together


We were discussing the fact that the kit comes without a casing. There are plastic legs for the PCB board but aside from that there is little protection for the unit as a whole. That was when the search began for a box of some kind. And look what Leigh found.


The size is perfect and with it being wood we can easily drill the holes to fit knobs, photocell and LED's and the jack connector through.

Here is the photocell. We allowed the length of wire from the surface of the PCB board so that it would sit pretty much flush with the knobs.



And for now I have to call it a night, it's getting on for early hours and I struggle to proof read any further. Until tomorrow...

Nocto Loco demo

This night time demonstration depicts the Nocto Loco FX pedal by 4ms pedals,hand-built by myself being sonically exploited by Leigh. The output sound is being filtered by the Sherman Filterbank and has Bugbrand's audio weevil as the input to the Nocto. Enjoy.

Phantastron video

A teaser of the completed Phantastron FX pedal in action. Here we are using the CV input on the Phantastron unit controlled by a 9v battery running along the ribbon controller. The pitch tuning works wonders and the wave form selector switch works best at certain frequencies. This is a brilliant kit to learn a lot (particularly using the turret board) and a good introduction to tube effects. Overall a very unique synth.

www.electricwestern.com

Fantastic-tron

That's right, I have completed the Phantastron, the one and only tube synthesiser by Electric Western. This little gem of an art-invention works wonders when triggered using the ribbon controller supplied by said designer. Oooh! I can't wait until Leigh returns with the video to post... tbc.

Nocto Go Go

A-Horrah! The nocto loco FX pedal is finally up and running! With the help of John at the club with his electronics knowledge, we discovered that the stomp switches I had wired up were in fact 90degrees round the wrong way. So after John patiently de-soldered and re-soldered each wire, we looked to be getting somewhere. Using a digital multimeter we were able to trace the path of current around the circuit checking for the correct voltage. So it seemed that only 9volts was required for the Voltage Regulator, and from then on the voltage is set to just under 5v through out the circuit

John came across some parts of the circuit which were not showing a decrease in value, in essence, we had 5v showing at one point but the ground (or 0v) was not appearing at all. Thus we came round to the idea that the track had a break in it. This was quickly solved with an insulated piece of wire being attached to link across the break. Then came the oh so exciting bit...

Looking at how the nocto loco acts using an oscilloscope made my heart sing! John had to do a bit of adjusting to get the waveform on the screen, brighten it up a little and make connections with the board using a couple of pointers. From the outset there was a nice small, tidy waveform flickering on the screen, however further explorations showed the curvy pattern switch to a choppy large square form (a rather sound shifting point) and then we discovered around the IC chips some very disjointed waveforms which appeared to be more like sanskrit than waveform. Oh they were brilliant!

And so knowing full well the box of tricks was working, it was time for me to pack up at the club and head for home. On arrival the soldering iron was plugged in and work began to finish off the loose ends.



The nocto loco was plugged in and given it's first test run by Leigh putting his BugBrand through it going then into the Sherman and out of the lovely sound system. It was very bendy and manic to say the least.

I was asked a question last night about what this pedal actually is, and here is some kind of explanation...

The Nocto Loco is some kind of pitch shifting FX pedal, with a jack input, you can put anything through it, though I am speculating that keys and guitars work best due to their hot sustained signal. The bypass switch means you have the ability to bypass the whole circuit to the output (so no loco) or where can switch to running through the maze of copper tracking. This then offers up the ability to move through three harmonic octaves, change waveform and the LFO (or what I believe to be LFO). There is a standard volume knob and a switch which still now I haven't quite worked out what it does. The Loco is self explanatory, it just pumps up the mania of the coarse sound.

The final result is magnificent. I am planning on getting a nifty little video on here in the near future, so keep them skins peeled!

Nocto Loco 7

All loose parts are fully wired up and soldered from having unscrewed the knobs and moved the PCB board around. However, further testing shows that still the nocto loco fx pedal is no-worko.

Last Wednesday I was explained each step of the circuit diagram by John at the club. This has helped to clarify how the signal and sounds are being affected (rather manically all in all) and bit by bit I am coming to grips with understanding these diagrams.

So, the plan is to use this guide and test each part of the build hoping to spot the break.If all else fails the nocto will have to be taken along to the club again and I will be asking (John) kindly for help and hopefully inspect the nocto with an oscilloscope should there be one available (see pictured above) and identify the problemo.

Big Muff Pi

What is this?


A present?


For Oi!?


Leigh you are so dear to this woman.



Electro-harmonics Big Muff Pi is one 'beast' of a distortion fx pedal, with tone control allowing you to sweep between low and high frequencies and sustain for drawing out harmonic noise this can sound beautiful and edgy. This appears to work wonderfully with guitar input over voice as it deadens the vocal notes yet rings out the guitar signal. This must be something to do with frequency (I did do a test using a bass guitar through the Muff but it didn't respond well) as well as being a 'hot' signal (as I have read before regarding pedals and signals). We can all look forward to Bitumen's musical adventures using the Big Muff Pi.

Nocto Loco 6

You little...

I have it! (or so I think). I remembered that the digital multimeter could be used to test continuity. Setting the dial on the meter to the sounder function, the two pointers can be targeted on certain areas of the circuit to see if power runs though the fx pedal, if so then it bleeps!


With this in mind and wanting to test that the octave and pulse switches are soldered to the PCB board (as previously mentioned there were issues with solder sucking), so by reviewing the circuitry I had an idea where each point was connected to and thus placed one pointer on one point and t'other on, well, t'other. In doing so, the majority of points showed up as continuous and she seems to have found the culprit!

I will solder a new wire between said points on the circuit board and then test again.

Nocto Loco 5

So fixing a new connection between the IC chip and voltage regulator has worked, we have a reading again of 4.9V. So comes the power up check....

No, no, no. Alas, even though meter readings show the power is running through the circuit, the LED is not illuminated nor can I get a single sound out of the nocto loco. I have looked over all the solder points and they aren't touching each other or frayed. It might just have been when the octave and pulse switches were soldered on the wrong side of the PCB board, now shorting out or something. Once again through solder-sucking to fix the past problem some contacts now look a little patchy.

More problem solving is required, for another day I thinks.

Nocto Loco 4

I have been battling with the nocto loco once again. The case is open and all wires exposed, the multimeter is set to on and copies of all instructions are finally printed out. (In retrospect, it is always a good idea to print these out first.) With thanks to Will of Bowood Electronics I now have a new voltage regulator 7805 which after solder sucking the last fried piece out has had to be wired up directly to its conectors. Good news it that it appears to have worked! Horrah! There is a steady reading of 4.9V. Oh and I decided to buy a new power plug, one that could be identified as centre negative and 9v DC (you just can't guess these things).

This little diagram came in handy for understanding centre negative
And so this is the opposite, centre positive


So, things seem to be going well in terms of the tweaking of power, voltage regulator sorted and working, now checking the IC chips and two are fine, another 4.9 V DC, however the smaller 4558 IC is not responding (even when I shout at it for 5 minutes!). Could it be the chip is fried? Replaced with one I had lying around and still nowt. So, following the circuit diagram it looks like pin 4 goes via a resistor and to pin 2 of the voltage regulator. Ha, there must be the problemo. So with a small piece of insulated wire a new connection is being made, just as this is being typed.... will it be a success?

Mice Drum box

I was given (some Christmas times ago) a tin full of milk chocolate mice. The chocolates have long gone and now I feel it is time to get cracking with using the tin for another sound byte.


There has been an old (fortunately working) T.E.N.S. electronic pain relief machine lying about the place which occasionally gets used when music making, only it is never very usable. The unit is too fiddly and the pads always come apart. So here is the trail of thought....


Using the tin, neatly house the T.E.N.S. add a spot of modification - circuit bending skills here, include the use of a contact mic between the T.E.N.S. pads to pick up the signal. Include some neat switches and buttons to control the unit and an output jack. Does it need an inbuilt speaker?? Hmm... maybe not (we will see how it goes and add one at a later date if necessary).

And there we should hopefully have a tidy drum box unit to run through effects or straight into an amp. Joy oh Joy!

Step 1: take the T.E.N.S. apart and look inside.


It appears that I will need a new battery holder and perhaps reconsider these flat batteries (expect some research is needed here as to what types). The switches are push to make and soldered flat to the circuit board, the rubber elements on the old T.E.N.S. case were the neat external buttons which triggered these. I will have to hunt about the tubs of switches and knobs for some replacements.


The circuit has several resistors, small capacitors and two slightly larger ones, two diodes (BZX from what I can work out), three voltage regulators C9013 G-042 and G-117 and G-051 plus what I think are three other diodes. Then there is something that looks like a housed coil?

The circuit board is a simple printed board with the connectors in place. There appears to be a memory unit (the black blob) but I may be mistaken. From the PCB there is the lead connectors going off to the two pads (which one would attach to hurt body part).


Time for tea now, so this will be completed at a sooner than later date.

Bodhi Tin

I had the whole afternoon free, why the bankers were on annual leave, see. So, pottering in the studio I decided to do a spot of circuit bending and rehouse the mini chanting box that had been around for some time, thus making a super noisy fx pedal.


I had previously opened it up and searched about inside, only finding a small PCB board leading to two AAA batteries and a small speaker. The unit has pre-programmed chanting samples which I suspect are in the black blob on the PCB. The only other components are a capacitor and resistor.I started by exploring the circuitry with a wire, and seeing what will bend the sound. I found that joining the resistor to another part had the enchanting effect of super-speeding up the sounds. This was the only possible amendment using the parts on the PCB. So simple is best.


I already has stores of odds 'n' ends so she collected together two switches and a female jack. I decided that one switch would be to turn the unit on/off whilst the other one is to switch between the bent effect and the original chanting sounds. The chosen switches were rocker ones, where clicking back is on, whislt forwards is off. With the batteries already in place from the chanting box, I detached one side of the connecting wire and ran this via the switch. The two wires from the circuit bent points were attached to the second switch.


Then, I removed the speaker and replaced this with the female jack, to allow running the unit through other effects or straight into an amp. The wires leading to the speaker were replaced with new wire as they were really thin and frequently broke when working on them. The metal travel sweetie tin was chosen due to the lovely circle shape it has and citrus fruits on the front. This was drilled and cut to make the two holes in the lid for the large switches and for the jack input.

All electronic parts were soldered together and the first test run was held in front of Molten Gods 1 and 2. I then realised that to change between chants you had to stop and open up the unit to press the tiny switch on the PCB board. So came the next adjustment. I tested out with a push to switch on button if I could simply attach two wires from this to the points of the tiny switch on the PBC board. It appeared to work, makes sense eh?! So this was soldered inplace, an extra drilled hole was made and the switch put in place.


Presenting the Bodhi Tin. Named after the tale about Budda sat under the fig tree, known as the Bodhi tree. This little sweetie is perfect for amplifiying the chants and messing with the pitch, great fun to play through other effects too.

Om...

Noco Loco 3

The problemo appears to be the voltage regulator 7805, which is frazzled. Measuring with a digi multimeter between two pins is the 11.5V (correct) and 0V between the other two (oh dear). So I have arranged for a new one. A big thanks to Bowood Electronics UK supplier of all electrical components for the heads up with a new part in the post.

I have prepared the ground by undoing all knobs to remove the PCB board and solder-sucker the part out from the board. We now sit by the pear tree and wait...

Noco Loco 2

I have again been working on the Nocto Loco by 4ms pedals. Now you'd think this was easy. Particularly as the mishap before put her on the straight run with the purchase of a new PCB board. Alas, for some reason the search for instructions online didn't happen until she had been at it again with the soldering iron. Oh! I had arranged the pots and switch on the incorrect side and the 7805 on the wrong way round. Out came the solder sucker...

Then things looked up and following the directions and wiring instructions all parts were gradually soldered as they should and the jacks and switches arranged to fit in the case then soldered. I realised that through (one can only suggest) over solder-sucking the top coat of the solder on the PCB had come off some points of the Octave pots. However following the circuit these seem to not be attached to anything else other than to fix to the board. So I soldered these pins as best as possible and carried on as before.
All parts were in place, knobs attached and this is the final thing prior to any painting or printing.

Looks delicious. So now I started the test. The search of the flat became a mission, 9v DC plug... the only one found an hour later was an American stylee with only two pins. However Leigh came to the rescue with an adaptor. Then the unit was fixed up with my Fender in, and out to a speaker. But there was nothing coming through.

And so the unit was opened and testing took place, after discovering that the meter leads weren't in properly, I clicked them into place and tested 11.5V. 11.5V?? How is this? She did an eye check over the unit, and scoured the forum for info testing again. I is now waiting for help over the ether as quite frankly she now hasn't much idea.

Dolly-winch demo

Dolly-winch

Finished! The baby's called 'Dolly-winch' after my old sea-sailing days. The circuit bent FM/AM radio is housed in the customised Bontempi amp case. Great for carrying down the street and free jamming. She sounds like a right dirty madam. DW can be found gifted to the darker side of Molten Gods.


With the ability to tune in to stations and then ride tones when using the override switch you can create a delight of scrapes, screeches and whistles. Plus there is a cut across button giving another frequency change and lower notes. The mini sensors can be used to great effect in shaping the sonic signal. In addition to the in-house speaker, there is a jack out for running through some lovely FX and rigging up to the system. Perfect for jamming a noise beat and sculpting the radio waves.

Video still to come...

Nocto Loco 1

Purchased by Leigh, I now have in my mits Nocto Loco by makers 4ms pedals. It is a right, grimey pedal that can drive the input sound down several octaves and frequency shift to make a truely dirty noise. Marvellous. It came as a kit with all the parts illustrated above to fix onto the PC board and house in a tidy aluminium box.

I had just organised all the bits and began with the IC chips when it occured to me that there didn't seem to be enough points on the PC board for the other chips (or so I thought). Turns out that the IC chips aren't to be soldered (oops) direct to the board but to solder the IC sockets (that's what they are!) and simply pop the chips on top to protect them. The word 'dufus' springs to mind.

So lesson learnt the costly and hard way. Still this will not hold me down I am sourcing a supplier for the IC chips as we speak and will, sooner than the snow stops, be back on track for making the Nocto Loco ready for the next musical meltdown of Molten Gods!