Saturday 10 September 2011

To London days 19 and 20

Tring summit was so delightful and beautiful.


I would say it is my most favourite spot along the GUC so far.


The variety of trees stood majestically with a vast array of foliage climbing, hanging, filling the spaces below the leafy canopy.


The woods felt magical. Some of the trees were perfect for building tree-houses too.

Notice the roof after a night under the trees...


There were only occasional boats moored along the stretch. It is a BW designated 14 day visitor zone, so you can't stay long. It was by the bridge for Tring station that I saw the first sign with mention of London! I was so flummoxed that this was as good a photo I could manage on a moving craft!


At Cow Roast begun the locks down passing through Northchurch and into the trendy town of Berkhamsted. Here it really felt like london, with folks in fashionable breton tops, sand-stone coloured brick houses and commuters. We passed a couple of lovely looking pubs and found a mooring just before dark.

This morning I popped into the town of Berkhamsted for some provisions. Weaving through the tiny town houses by bridge 142a, I discovered a shop. A lovely organic butcher shop. I picked up some of the tastiest bread I have ever eaten, along with cheese, ham, bacon and sausages - the quality of the produce is excellent. I had to find a post box too, but this was simple as it was practically next door to the butchers. It was actually in someone's front garden, I had to check and double check that it wasn't ornamental, like the red phone boxes have become!

This is a regular experience as a traveller to new areas. When you run low on foods, need medical access, need a cashpoint it's always a new experience to find said need. I have considered building up a log book of the best places and useful info around the country, but maybe I just need a label on the blog for "useful info". I discovered that someone is compiling a list of recycling points around the canal network on their blog and another person has produced a list of launderettes too!

The guides we use as maps on our journey are Nicholson Waterways guides that are pretty comprehensive but lack that little spark - for example they list supermarkets but not independent sellers like those in cottages along the towpath. But that isn't all that realistic I guess. Also I've thought about noting where I find foods in the hedgerows, apple trees, plum trees, etc, etc. But it's just an idea, the food is in abundance so you've just got to keep your eyes peeled.

It was mid-day and we mustered ourselves together to move. We reversed to the waterpoint near by (at a petrol station) and filled up, hosed down the boat and picked up some kindling. We set off for the first of many locks today.

Leigh caught this lanky fellow on camera...


Hemel Hempstead was a little disappointing, too many locks and not enough views. They are big double locks too, so it was slow going and hard work today.


We didn't stop once and Delia was going stir-crazy inside, enough to do an escape act and try to throw herself into the water! On the whole she is a darlin' settled inside but when she's had enough we sure know about it. I like to get her out and keep her on my lap when I can so that she is part of the move but it was hard to do this today with all the working of locks.

We passed through Winkwell swing bridge, a key operated bridge that stops the road traffic...


A notice still stands stating that if the bridge is not put back in place a fee of 10 shillings will be demanded "by order!"


Two boats passed us here, one towing the other - would they make it through the gap?


We passed Kings Langley village and it was 7pm. One hour until dark, but we carried on determined to get beyond the M25 motorway. We went through lock 70 Home Park Lock - a deep lock, and motored 1/4 of a mile...


under the huge bridge number 160 - the M25



We pulled over and after a bit of jiggling around on the shallow we found the perfect spot to moor. Delia has explored the area and just popped in meowing her approval.

So we are in the larger ring of London it feels. Brilliant. A few more days and we will be in Paddington.

Tonight after 15 locks we relax, tired and aching under the glory of a full moon.



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